Budapest

Since the hostel's free internet consists of 2 terminals which are permanently in use, I am at the American-style coffee shop, which has a lovely berry-chocolate smoothy, free wi-fi, and apparently shelter from the sudden storm. So I can blog for either 75 more minutes or until my battery craps out, whichever comes first.

Budapest has slowly grown on me over the past 9 hours. I arrived on the overnight train, which always disorients me. Finally found the hostel, despite desperately needing to pee, but the hostel wasn't really ready for me, despite its promises of flexible check-in. So I had free breakfast (well, black coffee since the milk smelled off) and tried to talk myself into getting up and going, but when she offered me my bed, if not my locker, it was irresistible. Also, then I could check in properly when I woke up.

At first, I was having problems navigating or finding an operating ATM. Clearly Prague is the "pretty sister", because Budapest does not seem to have so fully embraced its tourist potential. Lots of construction and trash blowing in the streets. Then again, once I had a gyro in me, and the narcolepsy was wearing off, the day was looking much better.

Hungarian food looks much more exciting and appetizing than Czech. It's closer to Greek, which I love. In fact I passed a Knossos Tavern, complete with bull iconography! Also, Hungarian is the most alien language I have ever seen, even more than Greek. Lots of z's and accents. I couldn't even pronounce phonetically if I tried!

Fortunately, the National Museum is really close and easy to find from my hostel. Which was good, since my grasp on Hungarian history is tenuous at best. They had some nice, diverse artifacts, which seemed poised between East & West in a way I haven't seen before. You can still smell the incense that has infused the wood in the 15th century inlaid church kneelers that aren't hidden behind plexi.

Walked past the Old Synagogue to St. Stephen's Basilica, which is plenty cool from the side, let alone full-on. Climbed up to the tower for my first glimpses of some of the other famous landmarks. As I could see the Danube from the church, I decided to head for that.

About halfway across the Chain Bridge (which is way cooler than the conveyance to Grammaria's), I was getting bored with it all. Kept walking to at least hit Buda. Walked north to get a better view of the Cathedral when I found a tempting looking dinner special. And holy crap - one of the best meals EVER! Rose duck with sour cherry sauce in lemon-balm with corn porridge - a Transylvanian special. The duck was delightfully rare with a flavorful crust. Corn porridge reminds me of polenta. Both were beautifully complemented by the sour cherry sauce. And the Sailor Apple beer I had. Funny enough, the menu featured Hungarian, Transylvanian, Slovakian and German food, but Belgian beer (including Delirium on tap!).

The only thing better was that as I was lining up a photo, all of the city lit up, including my photo. In fact, I didn't realise what had happened until I reviewed the picture to see if it was blurry. And Budapest is breathtaking by night. If you want to see the blue Danube, check it out at twilight.

When I have more juice on the computer, I will post the pictures.